Eulogy # 1

The old man ladled stew into a repurposed butter tub. Roughly chopped potatoes, carrots, onion, celery, a cheap cut of meat, salt, pepper, covered with water, it was more a soup than a stew. The old man wasn’t sure why he called it stew, but in his mind the only slightly more than quartered potatoes and chunks of beef made it stew no matter the consistency of the broth. Late summer was too hot for stew, but the old man liked the thin stew he cooked. The trailer house was already hot, and the old man spent most of the day sitting on the back porch, watching a small TV and doodling out plans he would never complete. A couple hours of simmering stew did not make a difference. A big pot of stew also fit his meager fixed income.

The Country Crock tub of stew, a sleeve of saltines, and a Coke went into the cooler the old man kept strapped to the back of his motorcycle . Wedging his reused Styrofoam Allsups cup between the handlebars and windshield, the old man set off to for his nightly trip to eat supper.

Riding on the access road along the interstate, the old man cruised at 50 miles per hour. He was in no hurry to get anywhere, and the idiots on the interstate scared him. As he passed under an overpass he built in the ‘80s, he thought about all the years we worked his dick into the dirt on jobsites across the west. For what? A rundown trailer with a floor that didn’t quite keep the ground out in places? Empty rooms where there should have been at least memories? The summer wind felt like a hair dryer on his leathery skin, and glancing out across the yellow pastures, the old man couldn’t remember the last time it had rained. The weeds sagged in the heat, and the grasses looked like they would crunch underfoot.

The old man pulled into the rest stop just as the sun touched the western horizon, pulling up to the picnic table he sat at most evenings. He unpacked his supper on the side of the table that would allow him to watch the cars and trucks race by on the interstate and to observe the people who stopped at the rest area. It was nice to be able to be around people without being with people. The old man missed sitting at the bar with semi-strangers for hours, creating the man he wished he had been through his semi-factual stories.

He did not ever think about why he started eating his evening meals at the rest area most nights. There were parks and cafes much closer to home, and his table on the back porch was much quieter than the picnic table next to the interstate. It might have been he enjoyed an excuse to get his head into the wind for a while on the motorcycle, but in bad weather, he often drove over to the rest area in his old truck.

Though he didn’t link the two, it may have been the experience of being welcomed home there once. The old man had just pulled into the rest area after dark to pull on a light jacket when another couple of less old, but still older men saw the old man’s Vietnam veteran hat and came over to visit. They talked their old man talk about the weather and motorcycles and eventually one of the strangers asked the old man,

“Has anyone ever welcomed you home?”

At first the old man was confused and replied, “What do you mean?”

“When you got off the plane from Saigon, and since then, has anyone welcomed you home?”

“No, I don’t guess anyone did.”

The less-older-man stuck out his right hand, shook the old man’s hand, and handed him something with his left hand.

“Welcome home, Marine. I know you’ll never forget that place, and we will never forget you.”

The old man looked down at what he had been given, partly to see what it was and to cover his eyes from these strangers with the brim of his hat. It was a Vietnam Veteran pin with an eagle on one side and inscribed with a thank you on the other. The old man couldn’t talk for a moment. When he could, they talked for a few more moments and the less-older men gripped the old man’s shoulder for a moment before riding off into the night. While the old man often thought of that night, he never connected it with why he came there to eat so often.

* * *

The stew was still warm, and though his doctor had warned him about the salt, he used a saltine cracker as one might use a tortilla chip in salsa. Half a sleeve of crackers later, the old man brought the butter tub to his lips and drained off the remaining broth, wiping his mustache with the back of his hand when he was finished. It was still above 90 degrees, but without the sun, the breeze was refreshing to the old man, and the sun warmed concrete of the bench felt good on his ass. He spent a while longer watching the people come and go and watched a couple of king birds and scissor-tailed flycatchers performing dogfighting maneuvers under the sodium-vapor lights to chase bugs.

An old, dented truck pulled into the rest area, dragging three similarly wrecked and beat up cars with tow bars. The old man didn’t understand how it could be legal to tow like that, but he saw it nearly every week. He had heard there was good money being made buying junk cars at auction and dragging them down to Mexico to be fixed and sold. The mescan that got out from the driver’s seat looked legal to the old man, but the passenger had that darker look and dressed in clothes that looked they came out of a Texan’s closet in the 1960s that the old man associated with someone actually from Mexico. Why was Greg Abbott letting them steal good American cars like this, just like they were stealing jobs when the old man was working construction?

Now, the old man thought, they weren’t all bad. He remembered the time in Arizona where he had pulled his bike off the pavement just before dark and had gotten stuck in the sand of Vekol Wash while trying to find a place to camp. The bike was too heavy for him to lift out, and he was not sure how he would get out. In the last dim light of the day, four men carrying knapsacks and grocery bags stepped through the brush and looked as surprised to see the old man as he was to see them. None of them spoke English, but after some gesturing, they helped the old man move his bike to firm ground, and they shared a fire for the night. The next morning the old man gave them what water he had left, and he continued riding west as they walked north.

Though he told that story often, he never thought about how he could never quite square his personal experience with the horrors described to him on talk radio.

***

Finally, as the concrete bench began to get hard on his ass, the old man started thinking about going home for the night. He had enough gas in the tank to leave the interstate and take the farm to market roads back home through the canyon. The cooler air should have already started collecting in the dips of the drainages and would feel deliciously cold as he rode through them. He might stop at those two big old oak trees on the side of the road in Mulberry Canyon and listen to the wind for a while. Besides, there was no hurry to get home. The dogs were fed, and there was no one else waiting there.

Dry Country

December.

A long time ago I gave up construction and ranch work because I thought I needed to settle down with some steady work. Something without rain days or drought. So, following the advice of a friend, I signed up to be a prison guard. All you need to know about that job is that I spent a lot of time thinking about country I had seen and other country I hoped to see. I would spend my days off driving around looking at country, and wondering if a steady job was worth my soul.

I was climbing into the truck after getting gas when I saw a tall, thin man walking down the street with a decent, but heavily loaded external frame pack and a stuff sack in his arms. I offered him a ride, he threw all his stuff into the bed of the truck, and off we went.

“Where you headed?”

“I was trying to get downtown, there is a shelter I slept at last year.”

“Salvation Army?”

“Yeah, that’s it, Seems like the shelter is on one side of the road, and the store on the other. Last time they gave me a green ticket and I walked across the street and they gave me a coat. That was before I got out to Colorado City and found work on the cotton harvest. I’m hoping something like that will work out this year.”

“Where you coming from?”

“East Texas, Had been working for a feller out there off and on for 26 years now. Good guy to know, hard man to work for. I’ve done quit him four times now, and I think this’ll be the last. Rowdy, what do you do for a living?’

I told him about the prison and the dirt work and the ranch work, and how I order them in my mind. Seems like enough people jabbing at you with sharp sticks will make the easiest job feel like the worst. He told me about meeting another correctional officer out in Colorado City, and how he had ended up there last winter.
“Rowdy, I quit that ol’ boy last year and started out west thinking I could find something to do, but nothing turned up, and so I kept walking west. In the middle of all that walking I got ahold of a bottle of whiskey. I got thinking that if nothing came up for me, I’d just keep on ‘til I got to those badlands where I-10 and I-20 come together, then I’d sit down with my bottle and spend a few days figuring out what the hell to do. You know that country out that way?”

We talked about the Davis Mountains, and as always, I enjoyed the way “Balmorhea” felt on my tongue. He nodded his head when I mentioned it, and went on with his story,

“Well, it took me a little longer than that one bottle to get out there. This lady picked me up outside of Sweetwater; she was taking her son-in-law to work out there at that prison in Colorado City. She knew of a man that needed a hand, so I spent a while out there running a modulator and a boll buggy. Afterwards he threw me a little more work disking and ripping, and brush hogging. Helped his other hands build some fence, couple of tanks, and a windmill. It was good work, just not enough of it to go around for us all, especially for a sixty-year-old man in the middle of a bunch of young men with families to feed.
” I got out to them badlands this last spring. Finally figured that I’d knowed that ol’ boy in east Texas for a good long time now, and maybe I could stand working for him again, so headed back east. ” He paused for a block or so, “Dry country out there.”

“Dry country just about anywhere seems like.”

As we pulled up to the front of the Salvation Army building we shook hands and he spent a few moments asking directions for things around town, and what the country was like south of Abilene. Unlike most people I offer rides to, Sheldon never asked for money; Hell, he didn’t even ask for the ride.

He went inside, and I pulled back onto Butternut with the sour-sweet smell of his sweat still in the truck; wondering why I felt envious of a man who is going to sleep in a homeless shelter that night.

Water battles of the past are the battles of the future

Last summer we examined how a mid-sized Texas city supplies water to its citizens. From what it takes to fill up a lake, to how the water flows through the city, to how progressive cities are reducing waste, we have followed water from the cloud to the lake to the tap to the drain and back to the lake. All that is lacking to you give you the full picture is to look at the future water issues of Abilene, Texas. While this may seem rather specific, Abilene is just an example of issues that affect most western cities of a certain size.

To fully illustrate the point, we need to consider how Abilene has found water in the past.

To save time, I have condense the timeline into a simple animation:
(you may prefer to click on the image and display it in its own window.)

Abilene-Texas-water

History of Abilene, Texas water supply from the 19th century into the future

In the past

  • 1897 Lytle Lake
  • 1918 Lake Abilene
  • 1927 Lake Kirby
  • 1937 Fort Phantom Hill Reservoir
  • 1952 Clear Fork of the Brazos and Deadman creek Diversion Dams
  • 1962 Hubbard Creek Reservoir
  • 2003 O.H Ivie pipeline 
  • 2015 Wastewater recycling to Fort Phantom

In the future

  • Possum Kingdom pipeline
  • Cedar Ridge Reservoir

Will it be enough?

Since my last posts concerning water issues, Fort Phantom Hill Reservoir became 98% full; however, el nino has wandered off to play elsewhere and that mean little girl, la nina, may soon be here to further dry things out. 2016 is already on record as the 11th most dry winter, and drought is starting to steal back into Texas.

During the time between the moist autumn and the soon to be dry spring, many people have quickly forgotten how bad it can get. The City of Abilene is proposing a water park and people are calling for completely ending watering restrictions. Do you think it is wise? Leave me a comment.

In an upcoming post I will look at droughts of the past and also explore exactly what a “normal” year of rainfall looks like.

 

A scalping at Fort Phantom

Sunset at Lake Fort Phantom

Sunset at Lake Fort Phantom

In my previous posts I mentioned the three reservoirs which supply Abilene’s water, what it takes to fill them up, how that water gets to the lakes, and what happens to that water when we’re finished with it. There is one last source to talk about and that is the Clear Fork of the Brazos River, which is a tributary of the Brazos.

Clear Fork of the Brazos River

As you can see, the Clear Fork of the Brazos passes very close to Fort Phantom Lake, but does not fill it. Wouldn’t it be great for Abilene if it did? Apparently, over 65 years ago, someone thought so, because in 1950 construction began on a diversion dam across the Clear Fork of the Brazos near Fort Phantom Lake. This was nearly 20 years after the dam for the lake was built.

Pumps at the diversion dam “scalp” some of the water from the river and divert it into the lake. Permits dating from 1949 indicate that the City of Abilene was originally authorized to divert 30,000 acre-feet per year. That is approximately 9.7 Billion gallons of water! I reached out to Howdy Wayne Lisenbee, Assistant Director of Water Utilities for the City of Abilene and Mr. Lisenbee confirmed that the city is still permitted up to 30,000 acre-feet per year.

The diversion dam and pump station.  Aerial photography courtesy Rocky White

The diversion dam and pump station.
Aerial photography courtesy Rocky White

There are conditions that have to be met before that water is allowed to flow. First, it has to rain on the upstream watershed of the Clear Fork of the Brazos. Once the water is flowing, the city of Abilene is obligated to allow 600 acre feet of water through the dam for downstream users, and must allow some water to flow through the dam while they are pumping. Many Abilene residents show frustration when the City of Abilene does not pump water from the Brazos after a rain, but we are under legal and ethical obligations to let people downstream from us have some of the water.

How does it happen?

When the conditions mentioned earlier are met, water is impounded behind the dam shown in the lefthand side of the above photo. Eight pumps (located on the righthand side of the same photo) push the water a little over 300 yards through a pipeline into Fort Phantom Lake. Of the eight pumps, five are 1,500 horsepower and are capable of moving roughly 100 million gallons per day. the other three, while smaller, are not lightweights: they are 1,000 hp and can pump 50 million gallons of water per day! If all of these pumps were running at the same time it would be possible to fill 984 olympic sized swimming pools in a single day.

Due to permit restrictions and maintenance reasons, usually only a few pumps are utilized at any one time. If during a pumping session one pump were to break pumping could continue with the other pumps. Mr. Lisenbee stated that during the scalping in May the city used a combination of two to four large pumps and a couple of the smaller pumps to add 651 million gallons to Fort Phantom reservoir over the course of three days.

The pipeline which carries  water from the Brazos to Fort Phantom Lake

The pipeline which carries water from the Brazos to Fort Phantom Lake

Aerial view of Brazos diversion pipeline. Water flows straight up from this pipe.

Aerial view of Brazos diversion pipeline. Water flows straight up from this pipe.


What is an “acre foot?”

 An acre foot is the amount of water it would take to cover an acre of land (43,560 square feet) with 12 inches of water.


Once the water reaches the end of the pipeline it flows straight up out of the large pipe shown on the right.

This water comes roaring down the into the lake:

The same type of scalping occurs on a smaller scale on the east side of the lake. In 1954 the City of Abilene acquired a permit to divert up to 3,000 acre-feet of water per year from Deadman Creek when conditions allow. In return for this use Abilene is obligated to release a certain amount of treated wastewater back into Deadman creek.

Same as it ever was

This additional water security did not come easily for the citizens of Abilene. Before the Clear Fork of the Brazos diversion dam was even completed landowners downstream began to complain and seek legal action. According to articles from the Abilene Reporter-News from the 1950s, an argument raged between Abilene and the landowners near Albany throughout the ’50s.  These battles echo the new arguments over some of Abilene’s projected water projects.

As the population of the area grows and as climate change continues to alter our landscape, these arguments over water will also continue. In my final article on Abilene water I will explore what the search for new water in the past was like as compared to the searches in our near future.

Not so Waste(ed) Water

[This is part of my continuing series on how Abilene, Texas obtains its water. The series starts here and continues here]


Reusing waste water isn’t a new thing. Several agencies have treated sewer water to use in various ways. For example, both El Paso and San Antonio inject their treated effluent water into the ground to recharge aquifers. In 2001 Abilene completed a pipeline from the sewer treatment plants north of Abilene to Lake Kirby in southern Abilene. This water is used for recreation at the lake and is also used for irrigation for local parks, golf courses, universities, and Dyess Air Force Base.

This past winter an additional pipeline to Fort Phantom Lake was completed, improved treatment facilities installed, and now treated sewer water flows directly into Fort Phantom Lake. As you may have learned in my earlier post, Fort Phantom is one of the main sources of drinking water for Abilene. It sounds gross to some, but in a dry area that is likely to only become more dry as both the populations and the effects of climate change increase, we need to utilize every drop of water as many times as possible.*

Continue reading

The Cereal King and the Drought Battle on the Llano Estacado.

It is difficult for man to look beyond the scale of his own life. We might have a vague idea of what life was like for our parents before we were born, and we have an idea of how we would like life to be for our children, but for most of us that is as far as we usually think. A while back I was talking to a man who was born in Texas during the early 1950s, but spent much of his childhood out of state.

The Cereal King

C.W. Post
Photo courtesy of Library of Congress

He told me about how it used to always rain in Texas and how drought was a rare thing when he was a child. This is the despite the massive drought during the 1950s, a period of time author Elmer Kelton called “The Time it Never Rained.”

In truth, much of western Texas has probably known more dry years than wet years.

Truly, fighting drought is nothing new; however, the methods change. While we have new technology to aid our fight, those in times past were also attempting novel ways of breaking a drought. Let me introduce you to C.W. Post. Continue reading

Your water is in detention (ponds)

[This is part of a series of posts exploring how a midsized Texas city gets its water. For the first post, click over to see what it takes to fill up a lake.]

In the broadest sense, Abilene has two sources of water: recycled and surface water. Surface water is the water that we draw from the three lakes (Fort Phantom Hill, Hubbard Creek, and O.H. Ivie) as well as the water we scalp from the Clear Fork of the Brazos river. We’ll look at scalping in another post.

How does the water get to these lakes?

Of course rain falls on the watershed of these lakes, but it then has to find its way to the lake. In the case of Fort Phantom Lake, it actually flows through Abilene. While driving around
town, the water (and trash) you see in the ditches and creeks is on its way to your tap.

Abilene_drainage2

Besides creeks and ditches, rain that falls downtown flows into the stormwater sewer system through the drains built into curbs. This water flows straight into the nearest creek to be transported to the lake and thus receives no treatment. This is why you should never dispose of anything but water into sewer drains; it is going straight to your drinking water!

The scenic route

Along the way, the water is diverted in various ways including ponds, detention ponds and riparian wetlands. The latter are the marshy areas often found along the edges of creeks and other water bodies. You might see reeds and cattails along the edges of these places. These wetlands (often ephemeral in this part of the country) provide important ecosystem services to use all. While I’ll let Bill Nye explain it better than I can, you should know that these areas help prevent erosion, fight pollution, provide valuable urban wildlife habitat, and help slow down water to prevent downstream flooding.

Unfortunately, Abilene has removed many of these wetlands in favor of straightening creeks. This is because it is easier to remove trash and treat for mosquitoes in wide straight ditches lined with short grass than in wetlands. It is also an attempt to reduce flooding. Abilene, like many other cities, use detention ponds to slow flood water, collect trash, slow pollution, and other services provided by wetlands. There are approximately 200 detentions ponds scattered through Abilene, though the Abilene Storm Water Department only inspects and maintains slightly under 50 of these ponds.

Detention pond in eastern Abilene before a rainstorm.

Detention pond in eastern Abilene before a rainstorm.

As I will mention in the following video, part of Abilene’s stormwater management plan is to allow water to flow down certain secondary streets, and these small holding areas are crucial to slowing the water down enough to prevent flooding.

2015-07-08 17.32.51

Detention pond after a rainstorm

You might be surprised that there are so many of these ponds scattered across Abilene, since there are so few bodies of water. Many of these ponds are just a few feet deep and spend most of the year as open grassy areas. You may have seen children playing in a detention pond and didn’t realize it was a pond! These ponds provide a place for water to collect during heavy rains to prevent flooding and they slow the flood water down, allowing some trash and debris to fall out of the water before it gets to the lake.

And there is one source of your drinking water. Next week we’ll take a look at another source of water.

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Grab a paddle

A while back I posted an explanation of where and how much it would need to rain in order to fill up Fort Phantom lake. Not accounting for absorption or detention in ponds and other low lying areas it would take a 2.6 inch rain on the entire watershed to fill up the lake, according to my previous calculations. Well, currently Cedar, Elm and Catclaw creeks are out of their banks in places. The following map shows a few rainfall totals for places in the Fort Phantom watershed

7_7Rain

Without data for the western edge of the watershed, it is impossible for me to offer a good estimate of exactly how much water will flow to Fort Phantom lake; however, judging from how little Lake Abilene has risen, I think it is safe to say that portion of the watershed will not contribute as much water to Fort Phantom as the eastern half. As of today (July 7th) the lake is at 45.3%, but click on the link to see the current lake level. Get ready to see a change in the lake level in as the week goes on! And check back here later this week to read about why it can take so long between a rainfall event and a change in the lake level.

Five years of drought animated

This map is just colors, but for some people it represents five years of sweat and tears. During this time fortunes were lost, herds and crops were lost, family ranches were lost. It is estimated that over 25 % of all the trees in Texas died during this drought. See what five years of drought looks like in 15 seconds.

(This is a fairly large image, so it may take a moment to fully load.)

Five years of drought animated

Five years of drought animated

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Goldilocks wouldn’t like Texas

What a difference a week made for some places in Texas! Parts of Texas experienced massive flooding which resulted in deaths, bridges lost, and at least one dam failure. Many reservoirs experienced dramatic changes in water level, with some becoming full nearly overnight. Possum Kingdom is full and was releasing water into the Brazos, and evacuations are occurring downstream. For the first time since June 2010, the USDA Drought Monitor does not show any severe drought in Texas (and it should be noted that time in 2010 without severe drought lasted only six months.) We have been free of severe drought only 26 months spread out over the last 11 years, and completely free of drought only three months during that same period.

Despite all of this rain and despite the drought relief, for many Texans, it is the same story as last week: The ground is damp, but the lakes are dry. Here is an updated map comparing the new drought index with current lake levels:

The largest red circles represent lakes that are below 25% of capacity, the medium dots are lakes that are between 25 and 50% full, and the smallest dots are lakes which are between 40 and 75%.

A comparison between the USDA Drought Index and Texas Lake Levels.

A comparison between the USDA Drought Index and Texas Lake Levels.

As you can see, while those along the Brazos are wet, people along the upper reaches of the Colorado River are still dry, even if the drought index has shrunken. With another month of spring left, hopefully things will continue to change for those of us in the dry areas; however, in this area the el niño effect often wanes during the summer before returning during winter. In other words, we may have a wet summer in the western portion of the state, or we may not.

Here is a comparison of May rainfall totals for a few select stations across the drought area. For ease of data collection these are mostly airport locations, so the totals may vary slightly from nearby cities. Notice that other than a few large outliers (Austin at nearly 17 inches of rain for example) that some of the dry areas aren’t that far behind some of the wetter areas. This goes back to my previous post about watersheds: it takes rain in a certain area to influence lake levels.

Rainfall totals so far this May (inches).

Rainfall totals so far this May (inches).

Certainly, we are better off today than we were this time last year, but now is not the time to abandon water conservation. In terms of water it seems the state has very few places that Goldilocks would consider just right.

Next week I begin a three part series on how one city in Texas obtains its drinking water. If you enjoyed this post, please surf over to the Instante Mense facebook page and like it.